To start, I took a bus out of Galway City to avoid cycling the busiest section of N59 (the national primary road that cuts across Connemara) and arrived in Clifden, "the capital of Connemara", where I hired a bicycle from Clifden Bike Shop. Cycling through Roundstone Bog, straight lines where peat had been hand-cut and stacks of turves were signs of human intervention in the landscape. But nature was at work, too. Plants, mosses and lichens grew on exposed peat and were reclaiming it as peat bog.