I thought of this at my next stop, the Elliston puffin viewing site, a rocky ledge just downwind from a busy nesting islet. I was cautioned by a teasing local not to take my eyes off thestocky, short-winged birds with their cartoonishly colourful beaks. "They're terrible at flying in a breeze," he said. "If you don't watch, one could hit you in the back of the head!"